Balmain gives softness with an edge at Paris Fashion Week

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PARIS (AP) — Doja Cat took her front-row seat at Balmain’s fall show at Paris Fashion Week, fresh off her appearance at the Oscars in a custom beaded Balmain gown. But on the runway, designer Olivier Rousteing shifted from red carpet opulence to a new kind of luxury, built on sculptural knitwear, fluid draping and dazzling blown-up zebra motifs.

The Wednesday night collection opened with a now-familiar silhouette from Rousteing — a swooping hooded sweater, this time paired with a leather peplum and relaxed leather trousers. Knitwear remained the focus — draped mohair, wool jersey dresses and cocooning sweaters gave the collection a sense of ease.

The monochrome “groutfit” made a strong showing, broken up by the rich textural play of pleats, ruched tops and embossed leathers that kept the palette from falling flat.

That softness found its counterbalance in statement hardware and a flash of animalistic energy. Chunky bracelets, talon earrings and that bold, graphic zebra motif, paired with oversized coats and slouchy boots reminded us this was still Balmain.

The footwear was a standout. Sculpturally twisted pumps and fuzzy or buttery-soft leather boots injected a playful contrast into the collection’s rhythm of black, white and bursts of citrus orange.

Though the emphasis on draping and ease was a shift, the Balmain DNA shone through in the accessories. Rousteing’s experiment with volume felt like a recalibration rather than a reinvention, proving once again that luxury isn’t just about excess, but knowing when to let the clothes breathe.